Deck oven not heating
Your deck oven has stopped heating. Work through this order.
Start with what costs nothing and is most common. Most "dead oven" calls are resolved before step four, and two of the first three steps do not need a part at all.
2 of the 5 checks below cost you nothing. Work through them before asking for a replacement-part identification.
- Is it one deck or all of them?
One cold deck points at that deck's elements or its contactor. Every deck cold points at the supply, the main switch or the master controller. This one question halves the search.
No part needed if this is your fault - Check the supply and the breaker
Measure voltage at the oven's terminal block with the oven calling for heat. No voltage means the fault is in the building, not the oven, and no part from us will fix it.
No part needed if this is your fault - Listen for the contactor
Turn the thermostat up and listen. A healthy contactor clicks audibly. Silence means the contactor or its coil circuit; a click followed by cold elements means the contactor is fine and the elements are not.
- Test each element for continuity
Isolate the oven, disconnect one leg of each element and measure resistance. An open circuit is a failed element. Measure all of them — elements often fail in sequence, and replacing one while another is weeks from failing means two shutdowns instead of one.
- Check the thermocouple or thermostat
If the elements and contactor test good, the oven may simply never be told to heat. A probe reading far from ambient when cold is a failed probe.
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